Edinburgh’s culture extends far beyond what you see on the postcards. It’s a UNESCO City of Literature with a Fringe Festival every August, but aside from that, there’s so much more to see.
The thing is, most of that culture doesn’t live in the places the travel books point to. Ask anyone who lives here what they do on a Tuesday night or a slow Sunday, and you’ll get a different map entirely, one with fewer flyers and a lot more character.
Here’s ours.
Start with the bookshops
Edinburgh is a city that loves its books, and you feel it the moment you walk into Topping & Company on Blenheim Place. This independent bookstore is home to signed first editions and author events, with complimentary tea and coffee for browsers.
Over in West Port, Lighthouse Bookshop is the place to find non-mainstream and political books, with regular events and talks.
Both bookshops are worth an hour you didn’t plan to spend.
Watch something that isn’t mainstream
For film, locals usually have two clear favourites.
Filmhouse on Lothian Road, a comfortable arthouse cinema showing British and foreign releases with a cafe-bar and member discounts.
And Cameo, this picturehouse cinema and bar is located in the Tollcross area of Edinburgh and is known for screening independent, foreign and classic art-house films.
Check listings before you go. You’ll probably discover something you’ve not seen before.
Summerhall, any night of the week
Summerhall is an independent multi-arts venue that hosts theatre and live art most of the year and turns into one of the Fringe’s main hubs come August.
Even on a quiet Wednesday, there’s usually something on, a small exhibition, a talk, a gig in the back room. Turn up without a plan and something will find you.
Contemporary art with fewer crowds
Fruitmarket Gallery, tucked beside Waverley station, punches well above its size.
This bright contemporary art space features a tight rotating programme of contemporary art from local and international exhibitions. It’s free entry, complete with a cafe and bookshop.
It’s the kind of gallery where you can spend a lunch break browsing, which is exactly how a lot of locals use it.
Portobello, when the centre gets too much
Fifteen minutes on the bus takes you to Portobello Beach.
Here you can enjoy fish and chips on the prom and beach walks in all weather. It’s the perfect place when you need an escape from the business of the city centre.
The museum with a skyline view
National Museum of Scotland on Chambers Street is free entry with plenty to see. This Bright, modern museum houses Scottish industrial relics and natural history displays.
Make sure to find the hidden rooftop terrace, as it offers one of the best skyline views in the city.
Six Nations season, outdoor screens
When the rugby’s on, the pubs with outdoor screens fill up fast, especially during the Six Nations.
The Pear Tree, with its big beer garden off Potterrow, and Three Sisters on the Cowgate are the two locals choose.
Get there early on a Scotland match day.
Make it part of your stay
This is the Edinburgh we know and love, with fewer queues and always something on if you know where to look.
TARKA puts you close to all of it, with a team happy to point you toward whatever’s worth catching that week. Book your stay with TARKA and discover what the travel guides left out.
